We have been here since Sunday. We plan to leave Saturday and head to Zlatibor for 3 nights, not because it is high on our destination list of places to see but because it is halfway to the town in Montenegro we are considering going to, and if we decide not to go south it’s a good location for departing for other places. These past few days I have been in the position I had been trying to avoid, which is feeling stressed about where to go these next couple weeks before we return to Zagreb. The only down side of coming to Zajačar is there are no obvious efficient ways to get to other places we might want to go to. I’m sure it will all work out. I mean, life will go on even if not ours, or even if not in the ways we would prefer. I smile as I write that. It’s an Eyeore thing to say, but it is how I see things. I can aim for desired outcomes, take care of my body and what is in my purview, and I can pray and meditate, and sometimes things go the way I want, sometimes unexpected gifts arise, sometimes challenges and illness and accidents and unwanted things occur…all of this is part of things ‘working out’. I accept this. My job is to respond (hopefully with awareness, skill, grace, wisdom and gratitude) to whatever comes my way.
Wednesday…
We ate breakfast upstairs, then drank coffee with our hosts, then set off on the almost two hour drive to Stara Planina, the mountainous hiking area by the border of Bulgaria. My bladder had been irritated for a couple days making me feel a need to pee more often than usual, a nuisance but not a problem. Dragan stopped by the side of the road for me.
Along the (beautiful drive- forests, hills, villages, winding roads) we stopped at a village, Dinka Kamenica, not far from the road to see the Serbian ‘Notre Dame’. This village, although old and in disrepair still has enough residents to make it feel alive, or at least not in its final days. The little church (Church of the Holy Virgin) indeed was slightly reminiscent of Notre Dame but on a tiny scale. The frescoes inside, very old, were beautiful. I was surprised that Zorica bought candles (no person was there to take money- people just leave the money on the table. Apparently few people stoop to stealing money from the churches, although I suppose one could make the argument that since the Church is corrupt there is no harm in taking money. But many people here are superstitious, even educated people, and would not want to risk harm from the Cosmos, even if not believers). I was surprised that she bought the candles because last year she stated clearly she doesn’t believe in God, although wishes she could.
As we drove higher up into the mountains we were met with fog which thickened the farther we went until finally it was so thick the visibility was poor, but Dragan drove slowly. The sad thing was that we had driven all this way to see the wonderful views from the mountains. All we saw was fog. When we parked and emerged from the car the temperature was 35. I had layers, and ear warmers, but no gloves. Luckily as we started walking my hands warmed up quickly.
We walked past what was once a small resort hotel for the ski area up the road, but the building is no longer in use. A very big long haired soft dog greeted us and we gave him much love. I was shocked by how soft his fur was. We wished we could bring him home.
We stopped occasionally to look at the ‘view’ between the trees of the thick white fog. The forest was beautifully softened by the fog. We made our way to a viewpoint next to a closed cafe. I think it is only open in winter for ski season. As we stood looking at the fog Jim optimistically said he thought the fog was beginning to life, and sure enough a few minutes later we began to see little sections of hills and valleys in the near distance. It never cleared fully but it was nice to get a hint of the surrounding landscape. Dragan asked if we were game to hike higher to Buben Zub (Grandma’s tooth), and we said sure. Essentially we gained 1500 feet in about a mile, climbing straight up a very steep ski slope covered in dried grasses, wild flowers and low shrubs. It was beautiful. As we continued up the fog continued to lift, never fully but our views did improve. The decent was slow because it was so steep and the fine gravel and loose stones made it slippery.
Once back to the car Dragan drove us up a different road to the base of the ski area where the gondola is, but it was closed until winter. There was a rustic looking wooden building labeled ‘resort’. It might have had space for 10-12 rooms. There were small shacks that in season rent skis, and a few activities for kids. Around the corner was a very new large condo building. We have no idea how full it might get.
The drive home was again lovely, past villages, through forests, and past broad hills and wide fields beautifully illuminated by the afternoon fall sunlight. Once home we ate a late lunch of leftover beans, bread, tomatoes, a cabbage salad, and cheese. Then we played Tok. For dinner we had a traditional dish made of chopped roasted peppers and onions mixed with scrambled eggs. We played Tok again. Dragan weighed himself and insisted we all weigh ourselves. I was about the same as I was before we left for our trip. Historically I’ve always lost a few pounds when we’ve come here. Not this time, so far.
photos: Springbnearvthe house where our hosts get their water. I forgot to mention this very huge house, by itself on the road- Jim was fascinated by it. It supposedly is owned by a gypsy who made money in Germany. Photo below the church photos is of the village where the church is. Jim with big soft dog. Fog. Fog. Fog lifting. Corn fields in beautiful sun on the drive home. In Zajačar.
Leave a Reply