More from Trogir

Our first afternoon here we walked down our steep hill to the (narrow) main drag that follows the shore  that is lined with cafe bars, fast food shacks, boat tour booths and bathrooms (was happily surprised to see these). The beaches are covered with small white rough pebbles and the aqua and turquoise water clear, clean and inviting. Even at this time of year each beach area had a handful of people sunbathing and swimming. We stopped at the market (food is definitely pricier in Croatia) then ate dinner at a place just up from the main road. Numerous restaurants are already closed for the winter but this place was good and we had a nice view of the sun set and an old small church. 

Next morning Jim cooked breakfast as he has almost every day on our trip, then we walked 35 minutes to Old Town Trogir on the other side of the small bridge. Trogir was initially built by the Greeks in the 3rd entry BC, then was a Roman town, then for 100’s of years exchanged hands many times between Venice, Italy, the Hapsburgs and others. The old town has churches and forts and other buildings dating back to the 13 th and 15th centuries. It is a very photogenic town with its maze of smooth narrow stone walkways between old stone  buildings. But like most old towns along the coast here it is very commercial and littered with overpriced  (but nice) restaurants and shops for tourists. I enjoy taking photos of the buildings and alleys but after an hour was ready to leave. This is my 3rd time here and I noticed a good bit of renovation and improvements just in the last 9 years since I first stopped here. It’s a nice place to visit once but I don’t expect I will come again.

After wandering around taking photos we met at a cafe with a guy Jim has written with in recent years on Facebook. He is a young guy, 35, and very interested in music in general and the Seattle Grunge and Metal scenes in particular. He lives near Split in the village of Solan where there is a large fabulous ruin of a Roman city that we have visited in the past. His family has lived in that area for 500 years. Hrvoje earns money as a free lance writer, mostly about music and musicians, and also loves reading, writing and acting. He lives with his mother and brother and says that is common here. We told him this has become more common in the US in recent years.

We enjoyed talking with him and getting his perspective, as a Croatian  on his country and the larger region. He, not surprisingly, does not have a great respect for Serbs who he believes cause trouble for themselves by trying to dominate the region, however, like the Serbs, he hates the Clintons for bombing Serbia. Despite the many problems in Croatia, especially the lack of jobs and the drain of young people out of the country, he likes his country. Crime is minimal, heath care and education good, and it’s beautiful. He said as far as policy goes there is little difference between the 2 main parties- both are run by x- intelligence officers and are corrupt. He feels, like so many young people around the world, that most politicians in most countries are just puppets who do the bidding of the ultra rich. He also is under the impression that American young people are exceedingly stupid and poorly educated and wonders why. He is also very curious about why America has become so divided and suspects it is because those with power want to keep their power and so foster division between people so we will blame each other as being evil and not blame those at the top who have the real power. He is frustrated that in Croatia it is hard to be innovative or entrepreneurial because it’s hard to get jobs or acknowledgement if you don’t have connections with people at the top. Also people don’t trust each other and bosses often take advantage of workers and pay them low wages and sometimes even withhold wages. We eventually said our goodbyes and paid the 14 euro fee for our 3 very small beverages (elsewhere these same beverages would have cost less than half that).

I love hearing people’s views and perspectives, whatever that are. I have no need to agree with people in order to enjoy or respect them. I am grateful that this is easy for me.

We walked home and went back to the same restaurant for dinner and enjoyed another good meal. We sat on the deck and watched a spectacular long lasting sunset. 

Today after breakfast (another clear day in the high 70s) we walked in the direction opposite from the old town to see the other side of the island. Sadly there are not very many walking trails on this island but we did find one that was pleasant. The other side of the island is much less crowded and there are more trees and olive groves and miles of rock walls on the hillsides. There are houses and apartment rentals over there but much smaller in scale. It’s very pleasant. All along the path are rock outcroppings and lovely swimming spots. If I had brought a suit and towel I would have gone in the water. Back on our side of the island we stopped at one of the seaside cafes and had something to drink, then headed back up to our place until it was time for dinner. We went back down our steep hill, ate at the same place, then hiked back up our hill to our balcony where we watched another less dramatic sunset.

Tomorrow we must be checked out by 10 (hopefully will get our 200 euro deposit back), and plan to drive the 4 hours to Zagreb where we have rented the same apartment where we stayed when we arrived 6 weeks ago. We have plans to see Zora and Morana again, then fly home early Tuesday morning.

Although I don’t expect to come to Trogir again, and it was not as idyllic as island villages where we have stayed on past trips, it has been nice having a sea view for a few days. Even though I complain about high prices here they are still far less than what rentals cost in the US, probably a third or fourth of what we would pay for a similar place with a sea view in Washington or Oregon. I feel grateful for the opportunity to be here. I will miss all the steep hills that we have walked up and down in so many towns and villages where we’ve been, but look forward to my daily walks back home in the park which is hilly as well, and has lovely views of the water and mountains. It’s a very different landscape than Trogir and other Balkan landscapes, but equally beautiful. How lucky I am to live in a beautiful place and be able to travel as well!

Photos: Row 1: ‘our’ apartment, top floor. Walk into Trogir, Looking at Trogir. Row 2-5: old town Trogir. Row 6: dinner, my first burger in weeks (it was great), Jim watching sunset. Row 7-9: walk to the other side of the island. Row 10: cappuccino by the beach, starting up the hill, my perch (marred only by mosquitos). Row 11: along our hill climb.