Our uneventful (but beautiful) drive from Kragujevac to Zajaćar took 2 hours as expected. We always are a bit mesmerized by pyramid-shaped Rtanj mountain when it comes into view. We arrived at apartman Stanić (where we stayed in 2023 and 2025) at 2:30. Dragan and Zorica greeted us warmly with smiles and 3 kisses on our cheeks. They invited us immediately down to their ground level quarters where we gave them the few gifts we brought for them- an etched drinking glass showing the Seattle skyline for Dragan, a small colorful bag with flowers on it for Zorica, and one of our favorite games, Iota, for the two of them.
Zorica had prepared a big lunch for all of us. For them, and many Serbs, lunch is the biggest meal of the day and eaten mid or later afternoon. Dinner, eaten late, is usually small.
We sat around their kitchen table (as is common here the kitchen, dining area and living area are all in one room, often not very large) where Zorica served lunch in several courses; the first included a plate of home-cured meats and cheese, hard boiled eggs, fresh tomatoes with diced onions on top, roasted red peppers and parsley, and homemade flat bread. Next she served homemade chicken soup, then a stewed home grown meat of some sort, and air fried potatos with crispy small red hot peppers that were delicious. Oh, and bread, and of course, their rakija. They don’t grow much food at their house (aside from grapes, tomatoes, apricots, herbs and flowers) but Zorica’s family has a farm in the village nearby where she grew up and her parents provide them with meat, eggs, cheese and many fruits and vegetables. We visited their place on our first visit.
Dragan had been off work (as a train dispatcher) for six weeks due to a badly sprained finger that was in a splint, so, lucky forbus, he was free to do stuff with us every day during our 5 night visit. Zorica, who retired early due to a back injury at work (at the local bread factory) several years ago and continues to have daily pain that she copes with by using pain medication, had a flare-up right before we arrived.
After our meal we went upstairs and unpacked, then Jim took a nap, then had coffee together on their covered terrace before setting off in the car with our hosts who drove us to the big park on the hill across town where there is a soccer arena, numerous monuments, and many walking trails through the woods. There is also a small ski area that is rarely used anymore because the area gets less snow than they used to. Because Zorica’s back hurt we did any easy walk and avoided hills. They said if Zorica felt better the next day they wanted to take us to Star Planina, a big mountain at the Serbian border with Bulgaria, but we needed to play it by ear. They both are long tome avid hikers but since Zorica hurt her back they now have to choose their hikes more carefully.
After our early evening walk we stopped in town to get ice cream. We continue to think it odd to eat ice cream before dinner, but that’s what they like to do. Upon arriving back home (they are on a hill at the edge of town but within easy walking distance to the city center), they invited us in to play the game, Tok, which they taught us to play last year and has become our nightly activity. They only have one couple (friends) who like to play, so they like to take advantage of having us to play with while we are here. It’s a fun game, played in teams, and is similar to Parchisi but using cards, not dice, that involves both luck and strategy. Last year I was paired with Dragan. This year Zorica and I teamed up and ended up winning, I think, 9 of the 12 games. Zorica is very competitive. We really enjoy playing with them. We tease and joke and laugh a lot. Zorica speaks no English and Dragan just a little so we all speak into our phones to translate for each other what we are wanting to say. This generally works well. Dragan is a very energetic man and prefers if we use the translate app rather than trying to speak Serbian. He does this also because he likes practicing his English.
Between games Zorica showed me how to make a particular traditional Serbian cornbread (using their homemade cheese but inthink i can use feta) that i had raved about last time. When it was done she served it along with roasted peppers, more of the cured meats, ajvar (a roasted pepper spread), and then a home made cake, not too sweet, for dessert.
After one more game of Tok we said goodnight and agreed to check in in the morning to see if Zorica was feeling good enough to go to the mountains
….
I slept too little, as usual, despite our comfortable accommodations. The main room is large with nice views of orange roofs and the city in the distance. If you look to the right you can see Mt Ratana in the distance. The apartment has a long hall with a bathroom at the end. The living area is to the left and two bedrooms to the right. The walls are all painted in a variety of warm colors. So many places here have a similar arrangement- with a big entry hall or a long hall running down the middle.
Zorica was not up for a hike but they invited us down for coffee and rakija, consumed on the terrace. Then we went inside where Zorica served the various baked items left from yesterday as well as more fresh tomatoes and the home-smoked meats.
Dragan said he had an idea for a walk. He drove us about 45 minutes to a reservoir where Zajačar gets its water (it is safe to drink but locals say it tastes like algae and prefer their local spring water, which is what our hosts serve us), with a short walk in a random woods along the way. The woods (with short trees, lots of oak) was pleasant but not noteworthy aside from all the butterflies we have seen in abundance in so many places. But it felt good to walk in the warm fresh air.
We parked in a dying village near the reservoir. Of course there were numerous sweet stray dogs lolling about on or next to the road. As we walked by the old buildings and farmyards I was, as always, fascinated by the remnants of an old way of life. I had an idea for a book- to photograph old villages around the country, and maybe include short histories or anecdotes by those still living there. It would be a beautiful way to acknowledge and respect a dying way of life. But to do that we would need to come again! Who knows if we will…?
The reservoir was unusually low, not surprising given the drought here this summer, but a few old guys sat on the dry banks fishing. Their was no path around the lake so Dragan drove us to the other side where we took a short walk to a tiny old monastery no longer in use, although it appears the little chapel is kept up, as are the many flower beds and boxes. The little churchwas locked and we could not enter, nor were we allowed to take photos inside the walls of the grounds. We were bad, however, and took a couple pictures of some very old gravestones to the side of the church.
When we arrived home they invited us down for a late lunch and another round of Tok, then dinner and another game of Tok. We feel very at home with them and I think they feel the same with us.
…
I only slept 3 hours. We had coffee downstairs then they drove us past the small city of Knježevac (where they have taken us before) to a spa in the countryside that has only been open for 2 years. Nearby is also a new waterpark and big outdoor pool which are rare in Serbia. I remember reading that before the war and the breakup of Yugoslavia the country had many pools and a strong swimming program. Now they lay abandoned, weed-filled and broken. That said, Serbia does still have a strong water-polo team.
Dragan rued the fact that Zajačar does not have a good tourist board like Knježevac does.
Our hosts paid for our ticket to enter the small very clean spa (quite a contrast to the old hospital spa they took us to a couple years ago). Jim chose to use the gym rather than the spa, but I followed our hosts’ lead and used the dry sauna with them, then reclined in a jetted individual tub, then sat in the circular hot tub. It was pleasant but sitting in warm or hot water is not my favorite thing. But the next day I noticed my neck and boulder were less sore.
When we were done we sat outside at a covered table where Zorica served us coffee and water. We each drank water from a cup that matched the color of our Tok game pieces. Green for me. Red for Jim. Blue for Zorica and yellow for Dragan. Wherever they go they either bring coffee in a stylish thermos pot, or they carry a little stove and she makes the coffee on-site.
We stopped in Kneježevac on our way home and walked around, crossing the narrow contained river twice, then went home where we had lunch together, Jim napped, then had coffee and rakija, played Tok, ate dinner together, and played one more round of Tok.
first meal. Dragan wearing the Sasquatch shirt we gave him last year. View near their house. Old well and playground in a village (Dragan insisted Jim and I play on the old see-saw). Reservoir. Old grave stones at the monastery. Sweet dog in the dying village. I forgot to mention we hiked up a steep hill before going to the spa- lovely views and a big throne on top. Spring outside the spa where it gets its water. Mobile coffee after the spa. River in Knježevac. Tractor in Knježevac (common in all sizes of cities and all outs of roads). Peppers at Zorica’s. Tok.
Leave a Reply