I’m sitting on the covered porch at Oaza Mira (peaceful oasis). 8:30 am, not hot yet but it’s expected to reach 95. Rooster is crowing, another sound that makes me happy when we travel here, reminding me there are still people who know how to grow and raise their own food. Morning sun is lighting up the tree covered hills across the little valley, the monestery across town, and the remains of the ancient fort tower on the not too distant hilltop in Fruska Gora National Park. We walked several miles to see it on our first visit to this little spa town four years ago when we were stuck here for ten days with Covid. This park is the highest land (highest point is almost 1800 feet) in the otherwise totally flat fertile farming region, so from the tops of the hills there are vast views.
The trees here, and everywhere we have been thus far, are dry. This country, and much of Europe, have suffered from extended periods of unusually high heat and drought. There have been hundreds of fires this summer, many still burning now. I recently read there are over 160 towns in Serbia that have no water supply right now. I fear this might become the new normal. This town, Vrdnik, has water, but what flows from the taps is not good for drinking as it has naturally occurring arsenic in it as does a lot of water in this northern part of Serbia. Most homes here have taps in the yard where spring water flows and that is what people use for drinking, or they buy water at the store. Our hosts said we can drink the water from their yard, but I am leery. When we were here four years ago they said not to drink it, so I’m not sure why they say it is ok this year. Springs are abundant throughout Serbia and supposedly the water good and safe to drink, but from what we have learned it seems nobody monitors and tests water quality with any regularity in most places. We do drink the spring water in many places, and it is delicious, but we are always aware it might not be safe. Knock on wood, in our now eight trips to Serbia the water has not made us sick and in fact it has been delicious.
Before we left BK we said by to our host’s father, Mirko, and also to Deda Dule who came over to see us one last time. He said in English we are his very good friends. I told him we will think of him any time we hear Bryan Adam’s’ song or the theme from Dr Zhivago.
We arrived here yesterday early afternoon (our third time staying at this small one bedroom house) after an easy 80 minute drive from Banja Koviljaca. There is a new freeway that opened up a year ago that makes the drive between Belgrade and BK at least a half hour faster, but we miss the slower route that takes one through various small towns and villages. I’m sure the small towns suffer economically due to the loss of travelers stopping at their shops and restaurants.
We were greeted by the wife and son of the owner who im guessing was off in Italy driving his truck. The son, Filip, spoke a little bit of English and said he is a bus driver. He pointed to a new A-frame building across the property that he built himself and invited us to go inside and see it. It is almost done.
After unpacking we took a walk through town to see if Jim’s favorite bakery was still there. It was but was closed for the day. We also stopped at the market to get water, eggs and other items. As is always the case we encountered many stray dogs in various states of health. Most seemed moderately healthy, just hot. I’ve said it before- I wish we could find good homes for all of them.
Later, on our way to dinner in a different part of town we passed a big new apartment building under construction down the street from our place. It is not in keeping with the scale of the rest of the homes on the street. Locals later confirmed that the project, like so many in these countries, are money laundering schemes that benefit the mafia and foreign investors. We wonder how many of the units will actually be bought or occupied. Most locals certainly could not afford them.
We ate dinner outside, as usual, at a place we’ve eaten at several times but is under new ownership. The food was good but not what we expected. My chicken and pasta had a very cheesy creamy sauce, not the sort of thing I eat very often, but I enjoyed it. And their homemade bread was excellent.
We enjoyed our walk home, past the old spas that are still open but not renovated or clean. As is true everywhere in these countries, many people of all ages were out strolling in the evening. Several vendors were putting away their jams, honey, rakija and veggies they had displayed by the road.
I was happy to be back in Vrdnik, although a little sad seeing the increased development in this older part of town. The huge new spas built 4 years ago on the hillside at the edge of town are hideous but at least not right in town. But this year we’ve seen more new building in the main part of town. I fear the quiet quaintness of the place will disappear before long.
Fruška Gora national park in the distance where Vrdnik is. View from ‘our’ house. Jim’s favorite pekara ( bakery). Cheesy chicken pasta. Sweet stray pups. Breakfast on the terrace (still enjoying tomatoes family gave us). Our house on the left, new A frame on the left, monastery church in between.
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