Sunday morning we ate breakfast then drove to Loznica to meet Lazo, Ružica and the two girls for an excursion. First we followed them to a restaurant on the hill above the ethno-village called Tršić that is about 15 minutes outside of town. The views of the green hills and valleys from the walls of windows in the restaurant were beautiful. I’ve said many times that these hills remind me of western Pennsylvania although the hills here are higher. We were grateful that Ružica allowed us to pay the (small) bill this time, something they rarely let us do.
From there we drove down the hill to the ethno village where we had been two or three times before, but we did not mind going again as it’s a lovely place to go for coffee, a meal or an easy walk. The village was the birthplace of Vuk Karadžić (born in 1778), the man who reformed the Serbian language. His house was wrecked by the Ottomans but has been faithfully rebuilt and contains some artifacts and furniture from his original home. In addition to the old buildings and small museum and numerous quaint cafes situated next to the streams that flow through the wooded valley there are walking paths, trails, and illustrated signs describing wildlife in the park.
After that we followed them past small villages and over high forested hills to the town, Krupanj, another place we have been several times with the family. Lazo likes it because his grandparents lived near there. It’s a pleasant town in a scenic spot amid green hills. This time we did not have coffee there but parked our cars and walked 4 miles to a restaurant called, Mala Reka (little river) in the middle of nowhere at the end of a rough dirt road. Nobody would ever stumble upon this place by chance. Lazo learned about it from a friend who made a reservation for us.
Before turning off the main road a stray dog joined us and stayed with us all the way to the restaurant. He never sought food or attention but never went too far ahead of us and paused often and looked back to make sure we were keeping up. It was as if guiding us was his self-appointed job. The family is leery of dogs ever since Lazo got bitten by a dog a couple years ago.
The first part of our mostly flat route was typical of what we see here, yet I never tire of looking at the houses, yard decor, gardens, fences, little farms, tools, old farming machinery, fields, pigs, chickens, sheep, bee boxes and people. The feeling that I am dreaming persists.
We walked in various configurations with the girls and Ruzica translating when we talked with Lazo. Eventually the houses died out and we came to a small bridge where the road turned to dirt and gravel and began to go uphill through forest. The girls don’t love long walks or hikes but had been banned by Lazo from complaining before departing on the excursion. They did a great job. One of the girls mentioned her legs were tired, but that was it. They were both great sports and very companionable.
Shortly before arriving at the restaurant we came upon a seasonal creek that was rushing across the road. It was no big deal for Jim and me to remove our shoes and wade across but nobody else would consider it. They thought the water would be too cold and it might be dangerous. Wading barefoot through a small stream, which I love doing, was not in their comfort zone. Lazo with his long legs made it across via some big rocks we tossed in and walked ahead to the restaurant for help. Meanwhile we looked for more rocks and branches and created a better makeshift flimsy way across the stream. Everyone held on to Jim, who stood in the middle of the stream, for support. After everyone got across Lazo called to say the restaurant owner would come with a car and ferry us across the stream but there was no longer a need. When Lazo told the owner we had walked from town the owner incredulously asked why? I imagine Lazo said his crazy American cousins enjoy hiking.
When we arrived at the restaurant, Mala Reka (‘little river’ ) built in a traditional style set on a hill next to a stream and surrounded by forest, nobody else was there. The owner greeted us and was the waiter. He brought a decanter of rakija to the table, poured it, and left it with us, returning to refill our small glasses but after 2 we said no more. The girls ordered their own dishes but the adults shared a large platter of grilled meats, onions, fries as well as each got a salad and bread. Yummy. The girls also got the traditional crepe-like desserts filled with jam, nuts, or chocolate.
Meanwhile another large group arrived, family of the owner, to celebrate someone’s birthday. Numerous young kids repeatedly went in and out the door next to Jim, leaving it open every time. It was a chilly grey day so it was important for the door to be closed and Jim became the doorman.
During lunch, when I commented on what great kids they have Lazo for the second time nodded toward Katarina and said she can be angry around the house. Katarina laughed and disputed his charge and said, ‘only when there is an injustice!’ She will make a good lawyer!
After the meal when Lazo asked for the check the owner said Lazo’s friend had already paid! This is the second time that has happened when we have had lunch in a rural area with them. Lazo is an agricultural inspector and we wondered, are the people who bought lunch for us farmers looking for favors when Lazo next inspects their farms, or are they social friends simply extending the generosity that is so common here. We don’t know. Either way Lazo was surprised.
It was chillier on the way back down the road, but we warmed up as we got going. At the stream Jim and I again removed our shoes and both stood in the stream and provided support for the others. Ružica again worried we might get sick from having cold feet, and that night she sent a message and again mentioned that she hoped we would not get sick. Earlier in the day while walking at Tršić when I said I needed to find a toilet she said maybe the reason I needed to pee is because I don’t wear sox. She said when her feet or ankles get cold it makes her feel she needs to pee. I’d never heard that before. I’m pretty sure that’s not what is behind my issue!
I walked much of the way with the girls. Katarina talked lots, asking questions about America- wanting details of school life in America, and asking if we have all the shops and fast food chains she has seen in American shows they have seen on YouTube and Netflix. She said she was so jealous that we can go to Walmart, Target, Wendy’s, etc. She knew them all. She also asked about giving gifts for birthdays and holidays. Here it is expected to give friends gifts or money ($10) on their birthday. For Xmas and Easter they don’t get gifts other than Rada gave chocolate and a little money.
As we walked two wagons, each pulled by two beautiful big workhorses, passed us. While most farmers use (often verrry old) tractors these days, we do still see horses pulling carts. And while people here seem to have a special love for weed whackers, many many people still use scythes.
Finally, when we reached the parking lot we took pictures and gave hugs, kisses. They wished us safe travel and said, see you next year! We never know which time will be our last but we would love to come again if we can.
We drove back over the little forested mountain, and wound around on narrow roads through villages along open ridges with great views. Once home we ate a small dinner at Contact (surprising our waiter by ordering less food and different items than on previous evenings). I finally ordered one of their yummy creamy desserts that I’d be yearning to order all week but never had room.
Next morning Jim did his exercises at the outdoor gym in the woods. He cooked breakfast as he does every day, and we ate, packed, strolled through spa grounds and bought a few gifts from vendors, then set off for Bajina Basta at around noon.
We liked our lodging very much (aside from the looming water heater) and would happily stay again.
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