We arrived safely in Promajna Croatia on Wednesday just before 5. The drive from Virpazar took closer to 5.5 hrs than the 4.5 estimated on Googlemaps. The route was scenic the entire way through small mountains and open scrubby hills, except for the stretch of road that turned to dirt through a huge limestone mining area in Bosnia. The place was a mess with big work trucks ambling across the road (that was hard to discern because essentially the whole area was dirt). This mining project is Chinese run and funded, complete with prefab housing for Chinese workers. The housing was surrounded by fence and all windows had bars. All signs were in Chinese. Really hideous and depressing. This is typical of the Chinese funded projects here whether mining or road projects. According to the internet nearly all of the limestone quarried from this massive excavation site is shipped to China, and Bosnia benefits in no way, not even jobs. And the Chinese are known for leaving the area a mess when the projects end. It’s so terrible.
Our drive took us through central and northwestern Montenegro, then through southwestern Bosnia, and finally into Croatia. In that part of Bosnia some of the territory is the Republic of Serbia and some is Croatian territory. The complicated ineffectual and corrupt geopolitical boundaries and structure of Bosnia and Herzegovina is mind numbingly stupid. It can’t last. In any case, we went in and out of areas with mosques, Catholic churches, or both. But much of that territory is barely populated, probably due to lack of water?
Once on the super highway where the speed limit is 130 kmh (we always stay under 120) we ran into an intense downpour which was very stressful because even with the wipers going at full speed the windshield was never clear. Thank goodness there was not much traffic and the other cars were going as slowly as we were (40kmh). We did pass an accident on the other side of the highway. There was an ambulance but we have no idea of the state of those in the car. While creeping along through the storm we passed several huge powerful drainage waterfalls crashing down right next to the highway. Much more water would have caused them to flood the road. Finally, none too soon, the rain lessened and eventually stopped and we made it to Promajna safely.
Our kind host, Peter, was waiting for us. He was polite and helpful but more businesslike and efficient than warm. We have found this to be the case again and again in Croatia (in contrast to Serbian and Montenegrin culture). That said, he did buy us SIM cards in Baška Voda, the much bigger town 4 km up the coast where he grew up (and still lives) before we arrived. Promajna no longer has a kiosk or any place to buy SIMs. He bought and updated this apartment in a 4 story building 3 years ago and has been renting it out since then. It is nothing special but is clean, comfortable and has everything we need, as well as has a nice balcony with a view of the sea. The one bedroom unit costs about $70 US per night which is a very reasonable price. In summer everyone raises their rates. We are so glad to be here now before many tourists have arrived. The only down side is that not all the restaurants are open yet, but there are at least 3. The bakery is not open yet either, but one of the 2 markets is.
This town used to be a working village but over the years has become primarily geared toward sea-loving tourists, but with few amenities. There are restaurants and a few beach cafes and 1-2 small markets but no shops selling souvenirs, sunglasses, towels, clothes, sandals and other stuff typical in these beach towns. The town itself has very little character and has only a few old houses left. Most are boring tall newer boxes painted in light pastel colors that appear to have been built in the past 40 years (new ones have sprouted each time we return). They do, however, have beautiful orange clay tile roofs that give the town its only charm.
BUT, the landscape here is spectacular and is the main reason (along with the small size and off season quiet) we have come back here numerous times. The town is set on the sloping hill between the clear aqua blue sea and the huge cliffy mountain behind the town. In the distance one sees some of the islands that are also popular destinations. The trees are a beautiful type of pine with colorfully textured bark and trunks and branches influenced by the winds. There are old olive orchards next to town as well, and at this time of year many wildflowers are blooming.
My first visit here was with my sister in 2014. We came again the next year with Jim and Kendra’s husband. And Jim and I have come 3 more times. Our last visit in mid October was a flub because the day before we arrived ALL the restaurants had closed so there was no place to eat. Luckily we had eggs and had those for dinner but ended up leaving the next day and going to a different coastal town.
In any case, our timing is good this time. Prices are still low, few people are here, but a few of the restaurants are open. Our first night we ate at a waterfront restaurant that has good food but their prices have risen a lot since our first couple visits. Our meal was on par with moderate American prices although portions were larger and food quite good.
Yesterday we went to the market then I sat on the beach for a while and found myself creating a little offering with stones and pinecones. I find it interesting that I rarely intentionally start creating something, it just happens. I always feel happy after making something even if simple and nothing special.
Later in the afternoon we walked on the seaside path to Baška Voda, about a 50 minute walk from here. But the path is level and the whole way the views are beautiful. Most of the way is through the pine trees I love so much. By late afternoon the sun had come out and temps were in the low 70s so we did see more sunbathers and swimmers along the way than we had seen in Promajna. There are beautiful beaches the whole length of the walk. Some allow full nudity.
We walked along the main seaside street looking at menus for the many restaurants in town, all with covered outdoor seating. This town is much larger, busier and touristy than Promajna, but has a pleasant vibe if that’s what you are looking for. Our waitress, Ana, when we told her where we were staying said, ‘oh, it’s pretty isolated over there and there is no structure,’ (meaning, shops and such). We told her we prefer the quieter places. She, like our host, grew up in Baška Voda and likes living there. She said a lot of people from there left in the 50s and 60s for Australia but they still come back to visit, but always in summer when the locals are too busy serving tourists to spend much time with them.
Ana, was chatty and friendly but was very Croatian in her persona and slightly cool affect. We found it interesting that she tried to make a bigger distinction between Serbian and Croatian languages than is warranted, and presented Croatian as closer to Slovenian and Slovakian and seemed to distance herself from Serbia. It is sad how the tension between the 2 countries persists. We have talked with both Serbs and Croats who refuse to go to the other country, either because they don’t feel safe or simply are prejudiced. Sigh.
Today has been cool and rainy off and on so we have stayed home, but as soon as the skies clear I will go to the beach and we will eat in town. Tomorrow is supposed to be drier and warmer so we will probably take a hike on the slope below the mountain …
I’m glad to be here even though I’m sorry to have left Serbia and Montenegro behind. Being in Croatia is a good way to ease toward home next week.
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