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Our first afternoon here we walked down our steep hill to the (narrow) main drag that follows the shore  that is lined with cafe bars, fast food shacks, boat tour booths and bathrooms (was happily surprised to see these). The beaches are covered with small white rough pebbles and the aqua and turquoise water clear,…

The drive from Virpazar to Trebinje was beautiful and only stressful now and then. The road was mostly in good shape and not too narrow or frightening, it’s just the darn speeding impatient drivers that make it scary for me. There was an extended section of rocky dirt road that was under construction with nobody…

I’m sitting in front of the open door by our balcony at our apartment across the bridge from the old city of Trogir in Croatia, just north of Split. Somebody is downstairs on their balcony coughing frequently. Aside from that, and the birds chittering, and a very occasional scooter or boat going by somewhere in…

I’m sitting on the terrace, waiting to go down to the yard by the lower house for breakfast. This will be my last time to sit here, at least on this trip. As I write that I think of my friend and her cancer diagnosis and being told a month ago she likely has 8-12…

I’m sitting on the upper terrace at Marko’s Prevalis Nature Cottage, a house he completed 4 years ago in which everything is handmade except the couch. When we arrived yesterday Marko greeted us with hugs and warm welcome. We stayed in the unit downstairs 4 years ago. Last year we stayed in his 2  bedroom…

Our drive to Cetinje, the former capital of Montenegro and a place we had never been before, was uneventful. We chose to take the new Chinese built and funded toll road only because it is normally faster and safer than the old road that winds through a long narrow canyon. However we had not realized…

SUNDAY: We were greeted again in the morning with rakija and our choice of peppermint tea, coffee or juice. Breakfast included a stew with pork, eggs with fresh ham, homemade bread and delicious homemade pickled cabbage. I would love to get some of Bojana’s recipes. Later in the morning Mičo invited us to ride with…

SATURDAY: When we emerged from our room Saturday morning Bojana served us Serbian coffee and slatka, a traditional sweet welcoming offering, in this case made from quince and walnuts. For breakfast we had a delicious cheesy macaroni dish, more cheese, more bread, homemade pastry with spinach, tomatoes, cake, and homemade yogurt-milk eaten with a spoon.  After…

FRIDAY: The road from Bajina Bašta to Mojkovac is slow but extravagantly scenic, and the terrain varied.  Most of the way is over and around mountains and hills. Some areas are almost entirely forested with deciduous trees, some largely coniferous, and some are mixed. Some areas are nearly treeless with broad rolling fields of tall…

Wednesday we had a leisurely morning at home. Our hosts were away for the day celebrating an Orthodox holiday (of which there are many!). It was cool and foggy when we woke as it has been every morning but by 10 or so the skies cleared and we had another sunny day with temps in…