Bajina Bašta part 2

Wednesday we had a leisurely morning at home. Our hosts were away for the day celebrating an Orthodox holiday (of which there are many!). It was cool and foggy when we woke as it has been every morning but by 10 or so the skies cleared and we had another sunny day with temps in the mid 70’s.

In the afternoon we headed out on foot for a long but easy stroll through and past town where we found a back road that passed the familiar looking (but never boring to see) farms, fields, gardens and orange-roofed houses. A young teenage boy walking home from school asked us in Serbian where we were from and we were able to answer him in Serbian. 

We had hoped (with little expectation that we would) to find the trailhead for a path leading up the steep hill to a viewpoint but had no luck. Google maps showed the trail going through someone’s house! So we continued on to the main road to see the famous tiny house that sits on a big rock in the middle of the Drina. The sunlight was such that the house was in shadow so we couldn’t see its details but it was picturesque nonetheless. This spot would be perfect for a trail along the river but no such thing exists, maybe because the river often floods.

We ate an early dinner at a restaurant overlooking the house in the river. Oddly they were playing weird versions of European classical music ‘hits’ rather than the typical popular western or Serbian music we usually hear. We had no complaints about our chicken, fries and salad. I splurged and ordered a delicious pistachio-blueberry cake, then we walked home and enjoyed a mellow evening. We sat on the balcony for a while and watched the nearly full moon rise.

…

Thursday we woke again to fog, rooster crowing, cat meowing and other sounds of village life. Melisa invited us down for coffee and we had our ‘Serbian breakfast’ of coffee, rakija and chocolate, then went upstairs, ate a more normal breakfast of eggs with veggies and bread, and gathered a few things for our venture into Tara National Park.

We were unable to find good hiking info for the park. All we had was a fairly general tourist map without much detail. We took what had looked on the map to be one of three main routes in to park. It was passable but narrow and unsaved in sections. We saw no signs or trail markers so we parked and walked on the road in the direction we hoped to find a trail to a high viewpoint. Eventually we lost cell coverage and our phone map did not match with what we saw in front of us, so we went back to the main road and followed it up through forest for a few miles. Our 6+ mile walk was a pleasant way of getting some good exercise but not spectacular since we never reached any good viewpoints. 

We drove home, then walked to town and ate at the same place on the main drag where we ate our first night in town. Our waiter was impressed by our Serbian. On our walk home I bought a t-shirt at the tourist info office. The clerk there was also impressed with our Serbian. We are really not very good but I guess better than most travelers who don’t try to speak in Serbian at all. 

We then stopped at a small flower shop and bought a large mum plant to give to Melisa the next day when we left.

The crazy spinning ride was going full bore when we passed back through the busy park on our way home. We watched for quite a long time. I found it mesmerizing. In between the spinning sessions the kids kept switching seats. Before starting the ride an old guy hoisted a teddy bear high up a pole. The goal was to be the first kid to grab the bear when flying around. We presume the winner got the next ride free. 

Back at home we sat on the balcony again and watched the full moon rise, and stray dogs roaming in the field.

Friday morning we ate breakfast and packed. Melisa sent a message inviting us down for coffee. We had more good conversation. They are among the many who say things were better for more people during the time of Yugoslavia. They reiterated that people are good all over the world, and politicians bad. They said they are not nationalists but love all people. She was happy to receive the plant and a card with a photo of a monastery I took. She gave us an icon from the nearby Raca Monastery as well as a bag of her freshly baked sesame-cheese rolls. 

We said our goodbyes and drove about 15 minutes to Rača. Even though we had been there twice before it’s one of our favorites  so we wanted to go again. Soon after we arrived an old guy went into the bell tower and rang the bells. I stood still and savored the sounds and vibrations . It was great being so close to them.

There were very few visitors at the monastery. The gardens were bright with flowers. The grapes on the vines that embrace the church were ripening. A bumblebee-sized hummingbird feasted on nectar and darted about. 

Inside the church was as I remembered, only better. Frescoes cover all the walls and ceiling. The colors are rich and warm. I don’t tire of gazing. And photography is allowed.

When we emerged from the church and started walking toward the gift store the proprietor who we recognized from previous years shut and locked the door and walked off. We stood around hoping he would come back soon. He appeared with a broom and disappeared into another building, never looking at us. He emerged from that building and went into another. Finally, after waiting about 20 minutes for him to finish his chores he reopened the shop. Once again I enjoyed reading the labels of the many varieties of rakija, honey products, jams, salves and herbal tinctures made by the monks. They also sold hand-knit thick wool sox and we bought a pair for Cedar for $6. After a quick stop at the rudimentary toilet building across the stream (where there are squat toilets which I still don’t know which direction I’m supposed to face), we set off for Montenegro. We had a fabulous 3 weeks in Serbia. I wonder if we will be able to return again. 

Photos: cabbages grow BIG here! First to rows are from our walk to the house on the rock in the river. Row 3: yummy dessert and watching the moon from our balcony. Row 4 and 5: scenes from our walk in Tara national park. Row 6: Melisa feeding strays. Row 7+: Rača Monastery (including the toilet building)