I slept too little, again, and woke with day 2 of a headache, not severe, just unpleasant. We walked to the neighborhood pekara (bakery) located next to the green market which wasn’t very busy. The route involved walking on a narrow street where cars parked on the sidewalk make it necessary for pedestrians to walk in the street. This is common in the cities here.
Because of my headache we laid low for much of the day. I caught up on writing. Jim practiced guitar (he has a small travel guitar that he brings with him). In the later afternoon, just as we set off for the 35 minute walk to St Sava’s Cathedral, it started raining and by the time we got across the main highway it was raining hard. We waited under an overhang for a few minutes but because we had a scheduled meeting with our friend, Anja, we forged ahead in the downpour. Eventually we stopped again under an awning of a tiny book and supply shop for kids’ stuff. The woman was friendly and at our request chose two books for us, one in the Latin alphabet and one in Cyrillic for me (Jim still hasn’t fully learned to read Cyrillic). One of the books is the Little Prince, the other by a famous writer and poet.
We continued to Sava’s and just as we were approaching the great loud bells started ringing, a special treat for me. Then we went to the designated restaurant where Anja and her brother were waiting for us. Anja grew up in Belgrade and moved to Seattle about 20 years ago. Her brother moved over 30 years ago when he was just 18. They were in Belgrade for a Court date to try to resolve issues they have with their (deceased) mother’s property here. It should be a clear cut case resolved in their favor but due to corruption nothing is simple and clear cut here. We loved seeing them here in Belgrade. Anja has talked for years about traveling together here. Even though we aren’t traveling together, it was great to have dinner together (very tasty modernized versions of traditional foods).
After dinner Jim and I went back to St Sava’s and had a few minutes before meeting our two other Serbian teachers who we call Dragana 1 and Dragana 2. Once inside the vast church we realized some sort of service was happening on one side of the church. I have no idea if it was a regular service or for a special occasion, but we got to hear the chanted singing echoing throughout the great space. It was also interesting to see the priest, with his censer, walking quickly across the great space and stopping at the various icons and saying prayers as part of the service.
We did not stay long because we needed to meet D1 and D2 who were waiting for us when we emerged from the church. We had met D2 on our last trip in the city of Niš where she used to live but had never met D1 in person. We love them both very much. They are both bright and good natured young women (ages 31 and 29). D1 has a 1.5 year old daughter, Sara, and D2 is pregnant and due to have a daughter in June. We walked to a nearby cafe where(of course) we sat outside and had a nice conversation. Both of them used to teach at a Serbian language school in Belgrade but both quit when the owner changed her focus and made it less good for the teachers and more expensive for students (which is one reason we stopped taking lessons there). Now they each have their own private students which is more lucrative and gives them more flexibility.
D1 is very supportive of the blockade and protestors although acknowledges it is complicated and there are costs to all the students who can’t go to school. D2 was less vocal so we aren’t sure what she thinks. They both agree Vučić is horrible for the country. They try to have hope that eventually things might improve but don’t expect positive change anytime soon.
While they acknowledge there are more choices and opportunities for work in other countries, they value their culture, especially the emphasis on family and friends. Both are so grateful they have a year to spend with their children after they are born, and that often family members are available for child care once women go back to work.
D1 feels called to be a language teacher whereas D2 is not sure what she might do in the long run but for now is grateful to be able to teach.
We exchanged gifts (D2 did not bring anything but D1 gave us a bottle of homemade rakija and chocolates from Macedonia). We gave them each earrings made in the U.S. D1 lives with her husband and daughter in her parents house not far from where we were staying so volunteered to walk with us rather than taking the bus. Even though many many people walk in this city, many of the sidewalks are in poor shape, and intersections feel chaotic and dangerous. We always try to cross with other people.
We said our goodbyes to Dragana with hope that we will meet again. We intend to continue taking lessons with her after we return from the trip. Even if we never travel here again, learning Serbian is a fun challenge and good for our aging brains.
Next morning we had a leisurely breakfast and chatted more with Bora who said we could stay later than the usual checkout time because he did not have any guests arriving. When we departed he gave us a shot glass with a Belgrade design on it ‘to remember us’.
We were very pleased with our host, apartment and visits with everyone in Belgrade. We like this vibrant busy city very much (as far as cities go) although find it stressful to navigate both on foot and in the car. Drivers DO seem to stop for pedestrians but only if those on foot step into the street with faith that the speedy drivers will actually stop.
There is SO much development happening seemingly in every part of the city. But this makes the city all the more interesting with buildings that are a couple hundred years old mixed in with Yugoslavia era buildings and brand new buildings. Unfortunately much of the investment is coming from other countries and it has pushed prices up significantly making it hard for long time residents to afford to live here. But in contrast to many American cities, there are still WAY more small independent shops, cafes, restaurants and businesses here as opposed to chains. This I like very much! We did see a Starbucks and it was a bit surreal seeing the sign in Cyrillic.
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