I slept nearly 8 hours! Temps went down into the low 40s. There are various types of heaters in the house but our hosts never ask if we’d like them to turn them on. We could ask but there are enough blankets that we stay warm once in bed.
Jim made breakfast, then we hiked up the hill on the road behind us. There was a section with a massive new retaining wall by the tiny road. We wonder what’s in store. We’ve walked up this road several times and don’t tire of if, although each time I forget how steep it is. It was a lovely mostly sunny day. Again and again I am touched by the beauty of the hills, forests, butterflies, farms, views, orange roofs, and narrow curving roads. And in,I’ve watching and listening to the sheep!
This year it appeared more people did some clearing. There were more views than i remembered. Lots of sheep in the slowing fields, small weathered wooden barns and seeds. Chickens. Lizards skittering in the dry detritus by the road. Dogs, but not running loose. At one farm on the top of the ridge a huge shar planina-type dog ran toward us barking intently as he guarded his sheep. Luckily there was a fence between us and him, although he could have gotten over it if he really had wanted to. One lady in the ridge top village offered us rakija…but then we realized she was wanting to sell us some. We said no thanks.
Once again we tried to find a connecting road shown on Google Maps right past the cemetery but there is no such road. We have walked farther on past trips but that was far enough for me that day so we turned around and went back down the little mountain.
Once home I worked on writing my posts. I’m always behind.
We are dinner at contact, then Lazo and Ružica joined us there for drinks and dessert. They had been at the spa using the gift certificates we had given them. I had been eyeing the dessert menu and finally ordered the creamy cappuccino torte which was good but a little too sweet and not a strong enough coffee flavor. Ružica said she loves sweets and could eat them at every meal. Funny to hear coming from a dentist.
We told some stories from our trip. We posed the question we have been asking people this year about whether Serbs living in Croatia differ from those in Serbia. They agreed with others who say the Serbs in Croatia are more western and cultured, and Serb Serbs more influenced by Turkish culture.
Lazo, as usual, wanted to know prices and incomes in America. We tried to explain that while making $6000 a month sounds like a lot, if you live in Seattle that money gets eaten up quickly by health insurance, utilities, car and home insurance, and food. He said we could live well there for 3 months on one month’s salary.
He also asked what we don’t like in the Balkans. We spoke about witnessing more environmental decline in the 11 years we have been traveling there, and it makes us sad and angry. And we don’t like the corruption, ugly development, money laundering. We forgot to mention the lack of water and sewage treatment. Of course I mentioned the scary drivers. They laughed when I told about the confounding washing machines.
We parted again with hugs and well wishes. Ružica said again how much she appreciates our visits. Lazo asked us to promise that we will come again. I crossed my fingers and said I hope so. We would like to come again if circumstances allow and align. But I mean it, if we come again we will make fewer stops! All the driving (even as a passenger) is hard on me. I have never felt very safe in cars, but having three car accidents in 4 years really seemed to traumatize me at a new level. Even though the accidents were all relatively minor, I’ve lived with chronic and recurring mild to moderate pain these past 10 years since the last accident, and I just don’t want more injuries. Alas, I cannot control other drivers, here or at home.
It has been really fun for us to develop relationships with Lazo, Ružica and everyone in the family. And fun to see the kids growing up. And amazing how generously they have welcomed us into the family even though our blood connection is several,generations apart. We feel lucky.
Friday was again clear and warm but in the low 40s at night. Showering was a little chilly but not too bad.
We enjoyed a slow morning. We planned to take a walk and do some errands, but when I went to pay our hosts for two more nights they invited us to sit down with them at their table on the terrace next to the driveway. They served us domaća coffee and rakija, and grapes from their arbor. The wife was mostly quiet. She smiled and made eye contact but didn’t say much. Neither of them speak English although the husband understands a wee bit.
They have 2 daughters, one has 3 kids and lives in town. The other, Maya, who we communicate with about the apartment, lives in Belgrade. The husband is retired. He used to work doing road construction then had his own business selling shipping crates. They also have income from their 2 apartments. Jim asked what he thinks about all the new highway construction in Serbia, wondering if he might mention corruption, shoddy work, or debt to foreign countries all he said was the roads are good and constructed according to code.
He was interesting to talk with. He wanted to use live translating which we found more cumbersome and less reliable. He was friendly and open and happy to answer our questions but didn’t ask anything about us, unusual for people over here. When we talked about how warm and generous our hosts have been he dismissed the compliment and said,of course they are nice, they want you to come back and rent from them again. We sort of felt that was perhaps partly why he was being friendly with us. Maybe not. He was friendly and offered us grapes and drinks, and looked us in the eyes when he talked. But that comment made us wonder. It also could be he just feels awkward not knowing English.
We headed across town after our visit with the hosts (I can’t recall their names at the moment) then stopped at the spa to ask about massages. The woman at the desk said we should have no problem getting a slot on the weekend. Then we walked up through a neighborhood we had not been to before. As usual, we saw newer bigger and well kept houses, as well as old run down and abandoned buildings. Often they are attached or right next to each other. This continues to intrigue me.
As we went further up the hill we came to a nice cemetery on the hillside with a scenic view (as so many cemeteries have). I found it attractive in a run down way. Most of the grave stones have etchings or photos. Most are in Cyrillic. We saw one guy working on cleaning and repairing someone’s plot. And a couple visiting another site. But it was quiet there. I saw a straw colored praying mantis amid the dried tan cut grass on the walkway. I was glad I didn’t step on it. He blended in perfectly with the tan weeds. He turned to look at me. I chose to receive him as a good omen or healing presence. Those creatures look like aliens to me.
We returned home. Jim rested. I wrote, then we had dinner down near the main drag at Three Kings, a place we’ve been to a few times. It’s cheaper than the places at or near the spa, and food is fine. As we walked home the evening light was beautiful and made a rainbow in the fountain spray.
Another positive sign, or at least I choose to think so.
…
Another leisurely morning. We went to the church, just a block away. Somehow despite walking by it dozens of times over the years we never went inside. It is a newer building (completed in 1975) adorned inside with colorful murals and icons. We stopped in the gift shop and got a couple things. As we left the church grounds we passed a haggard woman praying and/or begging. Next we stopped at the spa and made reservations for massages. I had some trepidation. I’m pretty picky about who I receive bodywork from. But we’ve been talking about doing this for years and so I decided I’d just give it a try and receive without expectations.
Then we strolled the spa grounds and stopped at some of the booths and bought a few gifts. We always wish we could bring home better gifts for people but the best things are either big, heavy, or foods.
We spent some time back home. I wrote some more. Then we went to Contact to meet Zoran, aka Rakun (racooon), a guy Jim first met on our 2017 trip. Rakun took him on a memorable mountain biking trip. We’ve seen him a couple times since. He and his wife live in Loznica but built a little camping cabin on property outside of town near the river that used to belong to his grandparents. They live there for most of the summer and enjoy hosting cycling guests from all over the world who camp there. Rakun and his wife have some fruit trees there and raise bees and grow lots of herbs. We visited them there 4 years ago. He loves being there at night, looking at the sky, reading books, relaxing with no tv or internet, although he does scroll on his phone a little.
We enjoyed our conversation with him, about cycling, books, his son, politics, and other things. He is the one who said we should come again but just stay in a few places and have people come visit us instead of us traveling all over the place. He told us he bikes less these days and hikes and kayaks more. He is anti e-bike, as is Jim. He showed us photos of his son, 22, who is in law school. The son loves the show, Yellowstone, and in the photo was wearing a cowboy hat, belt and boots.
He doesn’t like apartment life, but they do have two rental apartments which yield about 500 euros a month. It helps. He still has 10-11 years before he can retire, his wife 13. They both work for a local company that decommissions lithium batteries.
We asked for updates about Rio Tinto’s plan to mine lithium in the pristine hills near Loznica. Citizens have been fighting it for years. He said even if they eventually bulldoze their way and win, it won’t come to fruition for many years, and that project, devastating as it will be, is nothing compared to China projects that are already happening and more to come. He showed us a map of the area of land in Serbia already granted by Vučić for their mining projects. The Rio Tinto area is tiny in comparison. Rakun said he is not racist, but…he really does not like being in debt to Chinese. And he feels it is dangerous to his country. He, like others,said that having so many Chinese people in town (who work in the new Chinese owned car building factory) is detrimental to the community. Initially they stayed sequestered in their apartments but now are more visible, but they make no attempt to assimilate into Serbian communities and culture. Zoran isn’t against mining per se. He said mining has been going on for more than a 1000 years, and it will continue. But it would be much better if the mines were run locally and the country not to be in debt to China who doesn’t care at all about people or the land. He isn’t thrilled about Serbia joining the EU but is in favor of it because he would rather his country be beholden to the EU than to China. He, like so many people, thinks Trump is crazy. Of course he hates Vučić.
We enjoyed our chat. Jim gave him a bike tool. He, like others said we must come back, or even move there.
After Rakun left we remained and ordered dinner. We paid cash because we were trying to deplete our Serbian money stash because we cannot exchange it for dollars in Seattle.
We walked home through the spa grounds but didn’t linger because once the sun was down it got chilly quickly.
Leave a Reply