I’ve slept ok the past few nights, not long enough but close, so I’m feeling ok. I really enjoyed my day ‘off’ yesterday and decided to splurge and take it easy today as well.
It rained much of the night and morning, not a storm, just a pleasant soothing rain. Marko asked if we wanted to meet in town for coffee, something he rarely does. He said in all his years here he has maybe had coffee in town 4 times (one of those times was with us when we were introduced to him for the first time eight years ago).
We sat on the terrace of the new place in town where we ate a couple nights ago. Marko confirmed that he lived with his family here full time until 4th grade when they moved to Podgorica but continued spending much time in the village. We talked about a lot of things, including:
-The Virpazar area has only 700-800 year around residents, mostly older people.
-He almost bought a motorcycle to get between the house here and his boat in town but knowing Ivana felt uneasy about this he bought an e-bike instead which is safer and quieter and more environmentally friendly. But he thinks he would enjoy the adrenaline rush of riding a motorcycle. He doesn’t identify as being careless but he does like pushing himself.
-In Podgorica he spends much of his free time playing tennis despite having a meniscus issue in his knee.
-He would like to write but finds it difficult to focus when he is always on call during tourist season.
-He told us an interesting story about taking his final exams at university. His major was political science and his final exam was in Human Rights. When he asked what room the exam was being held he was told to go to the 3rd floor where someone confirmed he was in the correct place. When he started working on the exam he saw a lot of questions he had not learned or studied but completed the test, hoping for the best. Afterward he ran into someone who told him he had taken the test for Law students, not Political Science students. Nonetheless he passed the test and the school allowed him to graduate even though he took the wrong test.
-we talked about traveling. He understands why we like coming back to the same countries again and again.
-He suggested Jim and I should lead and guide a trip here. While I think we have the skills and knowledge to do so, i have no desire to take on that responsibility. I’m happy to consult and advise people who want to travel here but don’t want to lead a trip.
After coffee he headed off to do chores and Jim and I went to the market to replenish our staples- eggs, peppers, onions, etc. we also bought a few things again from the bakery. On our way through the square we stopped at the one shop in town that sells locally handmade souvenirs. We have met the artist, Liljana, twice before a number of years ago). She didn’t remember us (would not expect her to) but when we asked her about her hip replacement and other things from past conversations she was happy we remembered and insisted on us picking out a free gift in addition to whatever we purchased. She said her prices are the same as they were 12 years ago. People tell her she should raise them but she doesn’t want to. I said I feel the same way about my massage rates. We found out she grew up here and lives upstairs in an apartment right on the square. She said next time we come she will have us to her house for coffee, then she invited us to come for coffee tomorrow in front of her shop. People’s kindness just keeps coming over here.
After chatting with Lilian we went into the modern Tourist Info building that next to never has anyone inside, but today we had a nice chat with the young woman at the desk who seemed desperate for conversation. She grew up in Virpazar and likes it here. She hopes Trump will help America.
Now I’m back in the terrace, it’s mostly sunny, breezy but pleasant. Jim is off on another bike ride.
I really need to decide where we will go Wednesday for our last 4 nights before returning to Zagreb!
…
Tuesday-
We finally decided last night to book 4 nights at an apartment in Promajna Croatia, by the sea. Other than the beauty of the place and its small size we don’t really like the town (we have been 4 times before) because it has little soul. It once was a quaint working village but now is mostly for tourists. But the beach is lovely and one can walk for several miles along a path through the trees by the water which is pleasant. And we found a surprisingly reasonably priced apartment (about $65/night. In the US it would be closer to $250, or more). We had talked about making 2 two nite stops on our way back to Zagreb and going to new places, but decided to just go to a familiar place for 4 nites. Rain is predicted all over the region this week so we wanted comfortable lodging in case we can’t walk much.
The first part of the day today has been warmer and sunny so we did a 7.5 mile (round trip) to a 13th century village that we went to once before above the small village of Godinje. I don’t think more than 2 or 3 people currently live in the village because most of the houses are not habitable. There is a ‘restaurant’ of sorts up at the end of the path that serves organic food and wine but its season is short and it was not open today, nor was it open when we went one October. But today we met a young man, Dušan, outside his old house (in his family for 8 generations) who will be opening the lower floor in a few days for wine tasting. He was friendly and showed Jim around and offered us wine but we aren’t big drinkers, especially at 1 in the afternoon.
…
Before dinner at the boat restaurant again (we sit on the terrace, not the boat because I don’t want to risk getting a headache) we stopped to say hi to Liljana and were going to apologize for not seeing her for coffee earlier (we stopped by after our walk but she wasn’t there), but she apologized first saying she was sorry she wasn’t around earlier. She had to go to the city of Bar to get her national ID remade. She said all citizens need to do it now but she doesn’t understand why. In any case she had to wait 2.5 hours for her turn. She asked if we wanted coffee and we said we would come by after dinner.
Dinner was slightly better than fine- grilled chicken in some sort of tasty sauce, grilled veggies, salad and bread. We had the same nice older waiter we had a few nights ago. Several cats roamed around and under the tables, but no dogs.
Lilian was busy working on an oversized clay perch (fish) on her little table outside her shop and studio. She gestured for us to sit at a table ten feet away at the restaurant by her shop. We had Turkish coffee and talked for about 90 minutes. I’m sure I won’t remember everything she said but am jotting down notes that will hopefully jog my memory…
I will write about our chat in a separate entry.
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